Probably the only 'must have' moke tool. But you don't need to buy one like this - they are easy to make and who cares what it looks like!
If you ever have to remove your front hubs, this will be one of the handiest tools you could own. There are cheaper ones shaped like a fork, but they will destroy the boots and possibly damage your ball joints.
Roll Pin Punch
Very simple, but surprisingly effective! Makes getting the roll pins out of the rod change very easy, as the dimple on the end keeps the punch centred on the pin.
This makes getting the circlips on rear brake cylinders a piece of cake. Unless you service brakes on a regular basis you can easily manage without one - but if you like toys and need another reason to get one, the sleeve part is perfect for pressing out the rod change bush on the back of the gearbox.
The overthrow nuts on the clutch need to be locked together so they won't move, but most spanners are too thick to fit the inner nut. This is just a cheap 15/16" spanner with a bit ground away to suit. No need to grind the whole face, just a bit off the edges will do.
Fortunately you don't need many. 1 1/2" will do the flywheel and ball joints, and 1 5/16" fits the front crank pulley, steering wheel and some CV joints. All of these will be tight, so better if you can get them in 3/4" drive. An 1 1/2" ring spanner is also very useful.
It's quite easy to round off the drum brake adjusters with an open ended spanner - so one of these is a good idea. This one is just a tap spanner from an oxy set filed to fit, but you can buy proper ones. Unfortunately they won't fit the one on the front behind the steering arm.....
Great for reclaiming old bolts and cleaning out captive nuts. You will do 90% of Moke bolts with just 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 UNF sizes. Die nuts are more aggressive than the smaller rethreading nuts. The thread file will take care of odd sizes and things like damaged axle threads.
The easiest and safest way to stop the crank turning when undoing the lock bolt.
Just a short bit of ring gear welded to an inch square block on a plate that bolts into the starter hole.
If you've ever tried to remove the grill from behind a cali bumper you'll know what these are for! Also handy for adjusting HIF carbs.
You can buy them, or cut half the handle off a $1 cheapy.
A couple of simple steel plates that block the manifold ports and starter hole when pressure washing or painting an engine.The rubber plug is a suspension bush that fits in the distrubutor hole - tightening the wing nut expands it and seals tight. The dipstick hole can be blocked with a tubeless tyre valve sealed with silastic.
Not really a jig, just an old brake disc with some slots ground in it.
But it makes a perfect holder for your disc brake drive flange when pressing the old studs out or putting the new ones in!
How many times have you wanted to say the "f" word when putting a bolt back in an awkward spot?
Well now you can say fork all you want - just bend the prongs a bit first and don't use the good ones from the kitchen.