All moke brake and clutch lines are 3/16". There are a number of different types available - plastic coated (PVF), stainless steel, copper, copper/nickel (cunifer) and zinc plated bundy tube. All have their advantages and disadvantages.

PVF is fitted to most modern cars, quite rust resistant and readily available, but the green finish can look a bit odd on a Moke. Stainless obviously won't rust, but is hard to bend and even harder to flare. Copper won't rust either, but is illegal in Australia. Zinc plated bundy is the same as the original tube, and available as Reliance spare parts No. T345-C-6 for a 6 metre roll, and about $6 a metre.

The amount of tube required depends a bit on whether you have single or twin circuit (and how many mistakes you make!), but between 7 and 8 metres should replace every line.


Male tube nut fittings on a Moke are 3/8" x 24 NF long, with the exception being the tandem master cylinders and the 5 way valves which are M10 X 1. Just be aware the 3/8" fittings will screw into the metric threads, but will be very loose and may not hold under pressure - so don't mix them up!

Female tube nuts are also 3/8" x 24 NF, and used on the joins to the rear brake hoses.


All these including tee pieces and joiners are available from Brake Quip through Enzed etc., but they are only silver zinc plated (and a bit crappy in my opinion).


For good yellow zinc, you want Protex or IBS fittings. No website unfortunately, as they only supply to trade. Male tube nuts are readily available at most brake places, but they probably won't have the female nuts. The best idea is to take your old ones in as a sample.

Stainless fittings are also available, but will be expensive.

You can re-use your old fittings, but the plating has probably all gone and they may be prone to rust/seizure. Also make sure the end hasn't been flared by over tightening.


If you have a few Mokes to do, you can build up a bit of a collection!


There are only two types of flares used on a Moke - SAE single flare and SAE double flare.


The single, or 'ball' flare is used in most places, and the double flare is used with the female nuts on the rear hoses and the joiners in the side panniers.

To make the flares, there are cheap tools available that can do an 'okay' flare, but are mainly designed to work with soft annealed copper tube.


To get them to work with bundy tube, you need to do the wing nuts up very tight with a spanner, make sure the end of the tube is perfectly straight, cut dead square and chamfered inside and out, use plenty of grease and experiment with how much tube to have exposed. Even then the results can be variable - flares can be off centre, the tube slips in the clamp or the die tips sideways and breaks.

For a perfect flare first time, every time - you can't go past one of these.



They aren't cheap, but with some internet searching you can get a basic kit for around $300. These are the same tools the professionals use.

They normally come with instructions, but here are a few tips.

Preparing the tube is the key to a good flare. Make sure the tube is perfectly straight - much easier to do before cutting! Leave the coil end straight for next time. The ends of the tube need to be cut dead square with a tube cutter - hacksaws never cut straight. Clean up the outside and inside edges with a file. A No. 3O tapered reamer is perfect for the inside. Use a bit of grease on the tube and die.

Try a few practise flares first before cutting the tube to length - if they don't turn out OK, cut them off and try again.

But above all - don't forget to put the nut on the tube before flaring!!!


Apart from the flaring tools, there a few other things that will make life easier.


From left to right -

Files for dressing the inside and outside of the tube before flaring.

Mini tube cutter, to make sure the ends are cut square.

Tube benders.

Tube pliers - for tight bends.

Flare nut spanner (you can make one by cutting a slot in an old spanner).


Try to start with straight tube. It can take a while, but the end result will look so much better. Never hit the tube with anything to straighten it. If it is a neat coil, roll it out on the floor while standing on one end. If it is really bent, drill a hole in a block of soft pine and pull the tube through at an angle and repeat until straight.

It's always easiest to copy the old pipes if you can. To make life easier, I measure the old pipe and cut a new piece an inch longer. Do the first flare, slip the nut on and do all the bends, then compare it to the old one and cut off the excess. You may waste a bit, but it's worth it.

If you have a bend close to the last flare, make sure you have enough room for the nut and to grip the tube before bending. You may need to do the last bend after the flare.

If a bend is not quite where you want it, bend it a bit more on the side where it should be, then straighten the other side.

Long slow bends can be done on a former like a v-belt pulley from a water pump or alternator. Tighter bends need a proper bender so the tube doesn't flatten. Very tight bends can be done with pliers like the ones above.

If you are using plastic coated tube, there are special benders with plastic rollers that won't scratch the surface.


Again - don't forget the nut before flaring! They won't go on afterwards.

Having It All Done For You

If you don't want to buy tools or make your own flares, then most brake shops can do it all for you. And if you only need a couple of lines made, it is by far the cheapest way.

The best idea is to take your old lines in complete, and they will match the flares, nuts and lengths. If you don't have them, or want to change something, you can bend a peice of wire to shape and take that in. A piece of tape on each end with the type of nut and flare written on it helps.

Other Things

After making your lines, flush them out with methylated spirits before fitting. Make sure you get all the grease out of the flares.

Brake lines need no sealants - if they leak something is wrong.

Don't forget to replace the hoses as well.

Copper washers should always be replaced, or at least re-annealed.

Don't over tighten the tube nuts.

And most importantly - remember you are making brake lines!

If you are not 100% confident in what you are doing, seek advice or let a professional do the job.