Have you pulled your Moke to bits and forgotten where all the bolts go? Are you doing a full rebuild and want to buy new ones? Or perhaps you just need to replace a couple that are missing.
Here's a complete list of all the bolts that hold a Moke together and where they go.
Disclaimer. While all care has been taken in putting this list together, it should be used as a guide only. It is your responsibility to check the size and strength of bolts are suitable for their intended use.
Full bolt list for 1980-82 Mokes, as a printable PDF.
Bolt totals for 1980-82 Mokes, as a printable PDF.
About the List
The lists above are the original sizes fitted in the factory as far as I can tell - although there are bound to be a few variations. I doubt you will ever need to replace all of them, but a full list is very handy for deciding where the bolts you have belong, and the sizes of any that may be missing or incorrect.
When buying replacements, you may find a lot of the 1/8" length bolts are no longer available. There are several ways around this -
- Buy the next size up, and just leave a bit of thread exposed. Just be careful with blind tapped holes, partcularly on the engine. The bolts may bottom and not tighten, or cause damage.
- Buy box lots of key sizes, and be prepared to cut them to length.
- Have your original bolts replated.
- You may be able to order box lots of unusual sizes, and share the extras with someone nearby.
- Try a specialist supplier like www.classicfasteners.com.au/
Of course, many bolts can easily be replaced with an alternative length.
Most original body bolts were grade 5. While these will be okay for most uses, I have found the original yellow zinc finish easier to get in grade 8 and only slightly more expensive. Nuts, washers and nyloc nuts are very cheap to buy in box lots, and make reassembly much easier.
Set screws differ from bolts by having the thread all the way up to the head. Often these are interchangeable, although most bolts under an inch long are only available as set screws. Weld nuts are simply the square or hex nuts welded to the body in the factory. Pointed bolts (or more correctly cone point bolts) have a tapered point on the end to help guide the bolt into the nut, and are simply used to speed up assembly in the factory. Pinch nuts have been crushed on the end to prevent them working loose, and are similar to nyloc nuts but unaffected by heat.
Important
There are a few deliberate omissions on the list. These include (but not limited to) caliper bolts, brake bolts, drive flange to disc bolts, steering arms, seatbelts and all internal engine and gearbox fasteners. These are all critical parts, and should only be replaced with the correct replacement parts or better.
There are also a few Moke specific fasteners that are not covered. A lot of these are still available if you know where to look, and hopefully they will be included in a separate article in the future.
This list only applies to Gal body mokes from 1980 to 1982. While a lot of the bolts will be the same as earlier models, there are some differences. These include (but again, not limited to) the windscreen, fuel tank and bumper mounts. I'm hoping to expand the list to cover all models eventually, but obviously this takes a lot of time.
If you have any comments, corrections or questions, they will be most welcome. The original topic on the Mokes Inc. Forum can be found here.
Enjoy! Maddog.