A slightly different rear brake pipe modification for the Moke is to reroute the pipe from the wheel cylinder to the end of the short brake hose to shorten its overall length and provide less problem areas.

A fairly straightforward modification that I perform on my Mokes is to replace the rear brake line pipe between the wheel cylinder and the brake hose mounting on the trailing arm giving it larger radius corners and reducing the length of it to reduce fatigue and the chance of breakages.

 The problem I see with the Factory pipe set up is that there is a long unsupported distance between the hose mounting and the wheel cylinder and the second concern is the sharp bend just behind the flaring nut as it enters the wheel cylinder. The sharp bend is because the path of the factory pipe is to come up between the wheel cylinder and the handbrake spring assembly before going around the end of the Trailing arm.

On the 1986 trip of Mokes to Cape York  I have been told almost all Mokes had at least one rear pipe fatigue at this bend due in most part to the corrugations in the roads for 1600km or more. On my trip to Cape York in 2006 I ran one pipe of each design and had neither fail, however both were supported with an extra rubber block and cable tie just near the shocker mount.

My variation brings the pipe out from the wheel cylinder clear of the handbrake assembly and in two right angle bends, ges up the back of the stub axle and then heads directly for the brake hose mounting. The bends are done with a purpose made small brake line bender so they are even through the radius and not crushed.

In the last picture you can see the Factory pipe on the right hand side rear arm while the left side comes up past the outside of the handbrake cable. In the first couple of pictures of the new pipe you can see I have cleared the handbrake spring further than on my own Moke as I felt it was just a little to close.

All flares and fittings are standard.

Another simple improvement you can make to the rear brake line, including the standard set up, is to place a small rubber pad between the pipe and the trailing arm just before the shocker to give it further support. You can see mine held in place by a cable tie in the two pictures above of the left side that is on the Moke.