Hi Hag,
Nice pickup! They shouldn't be too hard to put on - provided all the ball joints and bearings etc. are in good nick. I assume they have the correct brake hoses that will bolt straight up.
I'll probably forget something, but here's a quick list....
1. Slip a bit of flat metal between the rebound rubber and the top arm - as thick as will fit. This will hold the top arm up and make things a lot easier. Make sure it can't fall out!
2. Jack her up and pull the wheels. Underneath undo the boots on the pot joints and peel the boots back.
3. Undo the hard brake lines into the hoses through the little window on the inner mudguard. Make sure the nut turns and not the tube inside it. Undo the big nut and pull the hose free.
4.With a ball joint splitter, pop the steering arm and bottom ball joint. You should be able to push the bottom arm down a bit to release the pin from the arm. If the arm won't move enough, it's usually because of the big washers on the tie rod hitting the subframe. Remove the tie rod if it gives trouble.
5. Now pop the top ball joint and the hub should come free complete with driveshaft! You may find the pin hard to get out of the top arm, as the driveshaft can hit on the bottom of the hole in the subframe. Hopefully the bit of flat in step one stops this.
You can do the ball joints in either order (top or bottom first) - I just can't remember which is easier.
Putting the new ones in is just the reverse. Just watch the balls don't fall out of the pot joint. I usually pack them with new grease and they stay put, but you can wrap them in Glad wrap if they give trouble (apparently the Glad wrap won't hurt anything if it stays in there, but I've never done it).
You may find it easier to pull the new ones apart (it is hard to undo the CV nut while they're off though), and put the driveshafts in first, then the hubs and then the discs. Calipers can go on last. Check the steering arms are the same too.
I think Terry is doing a "how to" on this, so he may have more tips or even photos.
Cheers, MD.
